A good pizza is one of the most rewarding things you can cook at home. There’s the way dough feels alive and responsive in your hands. The crackling sound a knife makes while crunching neatly through a properly baked pie. The fragrant steam that arises when you bite into a pillowy, chewy, tangy crust. The joy shared among the lucky people at your table.
I’m especially attuned to these pleasures because pizza success eluded me for too long. My pies would come out of the oven blistered on the outside and gummy on the inside (cooked at too high a heat). Often my dough tore while I tried to shape it (weak gluten network). My crust lacked flavor (not fermented long enough). Thus began a low-key quest for a bulletproof recipe that would work in my home oven so I could finally bake a proper pie. I referenced cookbooks and talked to experts; I learned about hydration ratios of flour to water and protein levels in supermarket flours. I acquired tools, including some fancy outdoor pizza ovens. Still, perfection remained out of reach.
Enter my pizza-loving former colleague Mary-Frances Heck. The dough, she knew, was key, and she set to developing a flavorful, forgiving pizza dough that didn’t require fussing over. Then our fellow pizza-head and recipe developer Paige Grandjean refined the recipe further in the test kitchen. After that, we pressure-tested the recipe with a team of test kitchen cooks in their home kitchens with basic residential ovens.
Sure enough, the key to good pizza is good dough. And the pizza dough that resulted from our repeated testing, tinkering, and evaluation is very good. It has complex — but not too tangy — sourdough-like flavor, and it’s elastic and easy to work with — perfect whether this is your first time making pizza or your 50th. We then gave toppings, tools, and cook times the same workout. The result of our collective quest isn’t just good pizza at home — it’s great pizza at home.
So go ahead. Get out your favorite toppings, crank up the oven, and pour yourself a glass of wine. It’s pizza night in America. —Hunter Lewis
Make the dough
Despite its reputation as a convenience food, the most essential element of great pizza is time. A slow fermentation gives our pizza dough its chewy-crispy texture and depth of flavor. It starts with your choice of sourdough starter (aka levain) or a simple mixture of flour, water, and active dry yeast (poolish) left to ferment for 12 hours. Both options start fermentation and build flavor in the dough overnight. Strategic stretching of the dough during the initial fermentation stage develops gluten and makes the dough evenly elastic and forgiving to work with.
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Stir together 3/4 cup unbleached bread flour (about 3 1/4 ounces or 95 grams), 1/2 cup warm water (about 80°F) (4 ounces or 115 grams), and a pinch of active dry yeast (about 1/16 teaspoon) in a medium bowl.
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Cover loosely with a clean kitchen towel, and let ferment at cool room temperature (about 65°F) until increased in volume 2 1/2 to 3 times and passes the float test, about 12 hours.
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Stir together 1/2 cup warm water (about 80°F) (4 ounces or 115 grams) and 3/4 ounce mature sourdough starter (about 1 1/2 tablespoons or 25 grams) in a medium bowl until starter is mostly dissolved. Stir in 3/4 cup unbleached bread flour (about 3 1/4 ounces or 95 grams) until well combined and mixture resembles thick batter.
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Cover loosely with a clean kitchen towel; let stand at room temperature until increased in volume 2 1/2 to 3 times and passes float test, at least 4 hours or up to 8 hours.
Give it shape
The only way to truly learn how to shape dough is to put your hands on it and practice. With patience and experience, you’ll develop a feel for the dough and gain confidence in your shaping techniques and topping combinations. Good pizza will become great pizza. To get started, we’ve broken down the shaping process into its key steps. Start by making the Artisan Pizza Dough.
Punch down dough
Punch down the proofed dough in the bowl to gently release air bubbles. Turn dough out onto a heavily floured surface.
Cut dough into portions
Cut dough using a bench scraper into 6 (9-ounce or 255-gram) portions. Fold the 4 corners of each portion into the center.
Transfer dough to work surface
Transfer dough portions to an unfloured work surface. Use a bench scraper to pull dough across surface to form taut balls.
Arrange balls on oiled tray
Arrange balls on a plastic wrap–lined, oiled tray; tug plastic wrap up between balls. (Or place in 6 oiled plastic pint containers.) Cover; chill.
Chill balls overnight
Let chilled covered dough stand at room temperature until dough is cool and a fingerprint remains when dough is touched, 1 to 2 hours.
Dock dough
Transfer 1 dough ball to a heavily floured surface. Using floured fingertips, firmly dock dough, leaving a ½-inch border.
Form a lip
Form a C-shape with the outer edge of your hand, and press firmly around dough border to form a 1/2-inch-wide lip.
Stretch dough
Lift dough onto the knuckles of both hands and gently stretch, rotating dough after each pull to maintain its round shape.
Form a circle
Continue stretching dough, allowing gravity to help expand it, to form a 10-inch circle of even thickness with a slightly thicker outer ring.
Shape on a floured surface
Lay dough round on a lightly floured surface or semolina-dusted pizza peel, reshaping as needed to form a circle.
Add toppings
Pizza toppings should be applied with a light hand; think of them as a way to season and add texture to the flavorful crust. As the pizza bakes and the dough puffs and rises in the oven, the toppings will naturally flow toward the center of the pie, so go easy on toppings in the middle.
Oil it
If baking in a kitchen oven, brush edges of dough lightly with 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil or Smashed Garlic Oil, being careful not to get oil on the pizza peel. (If baking in an indoor pizza oven, skip this step.) Drizzle dough evenly with another 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil or Smashed Garlic Oil, leaving a 1-inch border. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt.
Sauce it
Use a restrained hand with the sauce: 1 1/2 to 2 ounces is the perfect amount. Spoon 1/4 cup Basic Pizza Sauce (recipe below), 3 tablespoons crème fraîche, or 3 tablespoons pesto onto dough; using back of spoon and starting in the center and working to the edge, spread sauce evenly over dough, leaving a 1/2-inch border around edge and adding less sauce to the very center of the pizza.
Top it
When it comes to toppings, less is more: Through our testing, we found that a total of 3 to 4 ounces of toppings (including cheese) is the ideal amount for these small 10-inch pizzas. Arrange cheese and toppings of choice evenly on sauce, starting from outer edge and working toward the center. Leave the 2 inches at the very center of the pizza lighter on toppings.
Preparing toppings before applying them to your pizzas is the key to tender, well-seasoned vegetables, sizzling meat, and evenly melted cheese. Mix and match to taste, or try one of our primo pies.
Cheese
Low-moisture cheese is essential to crisp, well-structured pies.
- Fresh mozzarella, such as Di Stefano Fior di Latte or Crave Brothers Mozzarella, torn into 1/2-inch pieces
- Soft-ripened cheese, such as Brie, St. Albans, or robiola, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
- Low-moisture mozzarella, shredded on large holes of a box grater
- Goat cheese, crumbled into large pieces
- Ricotta, dolloped by the tablespoonful
- Parmesan or pecorino Romano, shaved with a vegetable peeler or finely grated
Vegetables
Prior to topping, toss 3 ounces prepared vegetables or hardy herbs with 2 teaspoons oil and a pinch of salt; let stand while oven preheats.
- Onion or spring onion bulbs, thinly sliced
- Russet potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced crosswise on a mandoline
- Mushrooms, such as whole beech, thinly sliced button or cremini, or torn oyster
- Zucchini, thinly sliced lengthwise or cut into 1/4-inch cubes
- Roasted red bell peppers, peeled and thinly sliced
- Cherry tomatoes, halved or chopped
Proteins
Precook and then chop or crumble fresh meat. Purchase cured meats thinly sliced.
- Thinly sliced cured meat, such as soppressata, pepperoni, or prosciutto
- Italian sausage or lamb sausage, crumbled and cooked
- Bacon or guanciale, chopped and cooked
- Anchovies, oil- or salt-packed, draped over toppings (can be applied before or after baking)
Herbs and greens
Add tender herbs and greens to hot pizzas right after baking.
- Fresh herbs, such as basil, oregano, mint, or cilantro
- Scallions, chives, spring onion tops, or ramps, thinly sliced
- Arugula, lightly dressed with olive oil and lemon juice
- Olives, pitted and torn (these also may be added to pies before baking)
Bake the pizza
We’ve long coveted one of those tiled, wood-fired pizza ovens that our favorite pizza joints all seem to have, but you don’t need to spend the price of a Ferrari to make pizzaiolo-level pies at home. We built these recipes to work in home ovens that max out at 500°F and also for popular portable backyard pizza ovens like Ooni and Solo Stove that rely on gas or wood and can crank up to 950°F. Controlling heat is the key to a proper bake. Here’s how to do it.
Baking in a kitchen oven
Broiling for the last few minutes of cooking helps brown the edges and top of the pizza while the bottom crust continues to cook from the hot stone below. Don’t forget to return the oven to 500°F to give the stone time to heat back up while you stretch and top the next pizza.
- Preheat oven to 500°F with a baking steel or large round cast-iron pizza pan (such as Lodge 15-inch) on middle rack. Let pan preheat in oven about 30 minutes.
- Gently shake pizza peel with prepared pie to loosen. If pizza feels stuck in any areas, carefully lift pizza edge with a bench scraper and dust peel with a 1:1 mixture of semolina and bread flour.
- Unload pizza onto preheated pan using quick, decisive movements: Set the peel edge on the pan at about a 20-degree angle and quickly pull back peel to slide half of the pizza onto the pan. Gently shake the peel side to side while pulling it back to slide the rest of the pizza onto the pan, allowing it to stretch slightly.
- Bake at 500°F until edges of crust have puffed slightly, about 3 minutes. Rotate pan 90 degrees and increase oven temperature to broil. Broil until pizza is cooked through and crust is browned, 3 to 6 minutes. Using the peel, transfer pizza to a cutting board. Reduce oven temperature to 500°F. If needed, dust off any residual flour on pizza pan using a silicone pastry brush or thickly folded flour sack towel. Let baking stone preheat for a few minutes before loading the next pizza.
Baking in a backyard pizza oven
- Preheat pizza oven and pizza stone according to manufacturer’s instructions on high 20 minutes. (Note: Cooking with wood takes more experience to control the heat, so we’ve only included instructions for gas oven cooking here.)
- Reduce oven heat to medium-low. Follow directions in steps 2 and 3 for “Baking in a Kitchen Oven” to transfer pizza to oven. Cook pizza, using peel to rotate pizza 90 degrees every 20 to 30 seconds, until cooked through and crust is risen and charred in spots, 2 to 4 minutes.
- Using peel, transfer pizza to a cutting board. If needed, brush off any residual flour on stone using an oven brush. Let oven preheat on high for a few minutes before loading the next pizza.
Add a fancy finish
While we’ll always love the pizzeria shakers of crushed red pepper and salty “Parmesan,” modern pizza requires a little something extra to finish strong. Homemade Hot Honey, made here with fermented Calabrian chiles; anchovy-laced Fancy Ranch; and Smashed Garlic Oil, which can also be brushed around the edges of a pie before baking, add pops of flavor to any pie. Garlic Confit, mellowed from an olive oil bath, can be smashed and used as a prebake topping, and the oil drizzled over finished pies. And of course, no one can turn down a dish of warm pizza sauce for dunking the “bones.”
Make-ahead pizza for a crowd
Parbaking shaped dough (aka skins) was a revelation for us during recipe testing because it fast-tracks dinner for busy families or pizza-party hosts. As a bonus, we found the crust gets extra crackly using this method.
Kitchen oven parbaking
Shape and bake pizza dough at 500°F on preheated stone until just cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to let cool completely, about 20 minutes. Freeze multiple skins in a large ziplock plastic bag up to 2 months. Thaw skins at room temperature about 30 minutes. Add toppings and bake to desired doneness, 3 to 6 minutes.
Pizza oven parbaking
Bake pizza dough according to “Baking in a Backyard Pizza Oven” (see above) until just cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes, rotating pizza every 30 seconds. Transfer to a wire rack to let cool completely, about 20 minutes. Freeze parbaked crusts in ziplock bags up to 2 months. Thaw skins at room temperature 30 minutes. Add toppings and bake to desired doneness, 1 to 2 minutes.
Better leftover pizza
We had lots of leftover slices during recipe testing. Here’s how to reheat them: For a few slices, heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high. Add pizza slices in a single layer; cover and cook until pizza slices are heated through, 3 to 5 minutes. Flash under broiler for 1 minute, if desired. For several slices, reheat on a preheated pizza stone (see baking directions) until pizza is hot, 2 to 3 minutes.
