Why it passed the test
- Halving the breasts makes thin cutlets that sear quickly and stay juicy.
- Adding cold butter gradually, called mounting with butter, is the secret to a silky pan sauce. When whisked in a few pieces at a time, the butter thickens and enriches the chicken broth mixture without splitting, for a smooth, glossy sauce.
- Anchovy fillets add instant umami and a bold, savory backbone to the pan sauce.
On those nights when the clock is ticking and dinner needs to hit the table fast, these chicken cutlets are your golden ticket. Thinly pounded, lightly dredged in flour, and seared until crisp, they cook in minutes. The flour coating not only ensures a golden crust but also locks in moisture, keeping those thin cutlets tender.
After the dredge, it’s time to put together the real star of the show: an anchovy-garlic butter sauce that’s equal parts rich, silky, and bright. Don’t let the anchovies scare you off; they melt into sauce, lending a subtle umami depth that makes the dish taste complex while remaining practically effortless to pull together.
The sauce is a quick lesson in a classic French technique: mounting butter into warm liquid to create an emulsified, glossy finish. The trick? Keep the heat low, add the cold butter a few pieces at a time, and whisk in each piece, holding off on adding more until the previous piece is fully melted. In about five minutes, you’ll have something luscious enough to drape over your chicken, swirl through pasta, or sop up with a hunk of crusty bread.
For an even speedier weeknight win, you can pound the chicken and chop the aromatics in the morning, so when you walk through the door, you’re 15 minutes from dinner. Serve with a green vegetable or a peppery salad to balance the richness, and you’ve got a restaurant-worthy meal on a Tuesday night — and, for an added bonus, only one skillet to wash.
Why do you coat the cutlets in flour?
A light flour dusting wicks surface moisture so the cutlets brown fast, forming a thin, crisp crust. The crust protects the meat from the direct heat and also helps the sauce cling to the cutlet. For this recipe, eggs are not necessary for the dredge because the cutlets’ natural moisture makes the flour adhere, saving you an extra step. When you deglaze the pan with lemon juice, the flour also slightly thickens the sauce.
What can I serve these chicken cutlets with?
Serve the cutlets over rice; small pasta such as pastina, ditalini, or orzo; or creamy polenta. For a heartier starch, try it with mashed potatoes. To cut the richness of the anchovy-infused pan sauce, serve bitter greens such as sauteed broccoli rabe or escarole on the side.
Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen
- A flat whisk is better for pan sauces because it sits flush to the pan, letting you reach corners and whisk the butter without excess aeration. Its shape also maximizes pan contact and melts in butter gradually.
- You can use either jarred or tinned anchovy fillets. The jarred versions reseal for easier storage.
- If you have anchovy paste, you can use it instead of chopping the fillets. Use about 1/2 teaspoon paste per fillet, since the paste is more concentrated.
Suggested pairing
A dry rosé from Provence is a natural choice for this dish. The region’s wines are celebrated for their bright, refreshing acidity and delicate layers of strawberry, melon, and citrus. The freshness cuts through the richness of the butter sauce, while the subtle fruit notes echo in the background. A gentle mineral edge adds lift that contrasts the anchovy’s savoriness.
This recipe was developed by Julia Levy; the text was written by Andee Gosnell
