Bahraini Recipes: How to Make Stuffed Vine Leaves, Chicken Machbous and Elba

When Roaya Saleh opened her first restaurant, Villa Mamas, in Bahrain in 2012, she had one goal: to feed people the way her mother fed her – with generosity, soul and spice.

A former investment banker turned chef, Saleh has since become known for her instinctive home-style cooking and heartfelt hospitality, with restaurants now in London, Abu Dhabi and Riyadh. But it’s not the global reach that defines her food – it’s the deep roots in the flavours and stories of the Gulf.

Nicknamed the “Daughter of the Gulf”, Saleh celebrates the comforting dishes of Bahrain and the wider region with a modern touch and a big heart.

Here, she shares three recipes for a seasonal spread that’s ideal for hosting – or just treating yourself to something sun-soaked and fragrant. Think stuffed vine leaves laced with mint and lemon; a deeply spiced chicken machbous, Bahrain’s national dish; and a silky, saffron-rose custard topped with caramel – her mother’s beloved Elba.

Each recipe comes with thoughtful tips and little secrets – from layering spices to using a water bath for the perfect pudding wobble – and reflects Saleh’s belief that the best food doesn’t come from perfection, but from passion. If you’re looking for something vibrant, warm and made to share, this is a good place to start.

Warak enab (stuffed vine leaves)

A Levantine classic of vine leaves filled with herbed rice, tomato and mint, slowly simmered in a spiced lemon-tomato broth.

Ingredients:

500g Egyptian rice, washed

750g tomatoes, chopped

750g onion, chopped

10g fresh mint, chopped

10g parsley, chopped

10g dry mint

10g all spice

10g cinnamon powder

440ml lemon juice

300ml olive oil

30g salt

For the broth:

½ cup olive oil

½ cup lemon juice

500ml filtered water

500g tomato purée

½ tsp red chilli powder (optional)

1 tsp salt

Method:

1. Prepare the filling: In a large bowl, mix the rice, tomato, onion, herbs, spices, lemon juice, olive oil, and salt. Let it marinate for at least 1 hour or overnight for the best flavour.

2. Strain the filling: Use a strainer to separate the rice mixture from its juices. Reserve the juice for later use in the cooking broth.

3. Prepare the vine leaves: If using jarred or canned vine leaves, wash thoroughly to remove excess salt. Strain and separate the leaves; use only large, intact ones. Trim and discard any hard stems.

4. Assemble the rolls: Lay a vine leaf shiny side down. Place about 30g of filling in the centre. Fold the sides in, and roll tightly into a neat cylinder. Repeat with remaining leaves and filling.

5. Layer and cook: Line the bottom of a heavy pot with potato slices (to prevent burning). Stack the vine rolls tightly, seam side down. Place a heavy plate upside down on top to hold them in place.

6. Add the broth: Pour in the reserved marinade, plus the ingredients for the broth.

7. Cook: Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook gently for 2 hours. After 1 hour, you can place a steel plate or stand under the pot to avoid burning the base.

Alternative method:

After bringing to a boil, place the covered pot in a preheated oven at 180C and bake for 4 hours.

Chicken machbous

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The national dish of Bahrain, machbous, is a celebratory chicken and rice dish layered with warmth and fragrance.

Ingredients:

For the chicken and rice:

1.6kg bone-in, skin-on chicken

5 cups Basmati Sella rice, washed until water runs clear

120g ghee, plus 50g more for finishing

500g red onion, diced

100g fresh ginger, finely chopped or grated

50g garlic, minced

12g green chillies, chopped (optional)

10g curry leaves, stems removed

150g tomato purée

20g dried blond lime (deseeded)

1.5L filtered boiling water

1½ tbsp sea salt

20g chicken stock powder or 1 cube

150g fresh coriander and dill, chopped with stems

60ml lime juice

For the mixed spice blend:

5g turmeric powder

2g cinnamon powder

2g cumin powder

8g coriander powder

2g cardamom powder

8g mixed spice blend

For marinating the chicken:

1 tsp mixed spice blend

1 tsp salt

½ tsp black lime powder

½ tsp turmeric powder

Method:

1. Marinate the chicken: Rub the chicken with the marination spices: mixed spice, salt, black lime powder, and turmeric. Set aside for at least 30 minutes, or overnight in the fridge.

2. Sear the chicken:In a large, wide 5L pot, heat the ghee over medium-high heat. Sear the marinated chicken pieces until golden on both sides. Remove and set aside.

3. Sauté the aromatics: In the same pot, add the diced onions, chopped ginger, and curry leaves. Cook over medium heat until the onions turn golden brown.

4. Build the spice base: Add the garlic and green chillies (if using), then stir in turmeric, cinnamon, cumin, coriander, cardamom, and mixed spice blend. Sauté for 2-3 minutes until fragrant.

5. Create the broth: Stir in the tomato purée and cook until well incorporated. Add the dried lime, chicken stock powder, and sea salt. Pour in the boiling water. Return the seared chicken to the pot, cover, and simmer on medium heat for 40 minutes.

6. Cook the rice: Once the chicken is cooked, remove it and set aside. Add the chopped coriander and dill to the broth and bring it to a boil. Add the washed rice and gently stir. Cook on medium heat for about 2 minutes, until the rice has absorbed most of the liquid. Return the chicken to the pot, nestling it into the rice.

7. Steam to finish: Reduce the heat to low. Cover the pot tightly with foil and a lid, and steam for 20 minutes until the rice is fully cooked and fluffy.

8. Final touch: Drizzle 50g of hot ghee over the rice, followed by the lime juice. Cover again and steam for a final 5 minutes.

9. To serve: Fluff the rice gently and serve the chicken machbous hot with crisp salad, cool raita, or a sharp tomato chutney.

Mama’s Elba (saffron rose milk pudding with caramel)

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This milk-based pudding – known as Elba – is a beloved dessert across the Gulf. This version, shared by Roaya, layers Middle Eastern aromatics into a silken custard set over glossy caramel. The recipe uses both rose water and cardamom, with a touch of saffron and nigella seed to create depth and fragrance.

Serves: 8

Ingredients:

For the custard:

5 eggs, room temperature

1 tsp pure vanilla essence

1 cup milk powder

½ cup granulated white sugar

½ tsp freshly ground cardamom

⅛ tsp saffron powder (or use saffron threads, if available)

½ cup thick, full-fat cream

500ml full-fat fresh milk

½ tsp nigella seeds

60ml (¼ cup) rose water

For the caramel:

¾ cup white sugar

2 tbsp room-temperature water

Method:

1. Infuse the saffron rose: In a small bowl, combine the saffron powder (or crushed threads) with the rose water. Set aside to infuse while you prepare the custard base.

2. Blend the custard: In a high-speed blender or stand mixer, combine the eggs, vanilla, milk powder, sugar, cardamom, and the saffron-infused rose water. Blend until smooth and fully incorporated. Transfer to a jug for easy pouring, then stir in the nigella seeds gently using a spatula.

3. Make the caramel: Place the sugar and water in a saucepan over medium heat. Allow it to simmer without stirring until it turns a deep amber colour. Quickly pour the hot caramel into 8 individual ramekins, swirling each one to coat the bottom evenly.

4. Bake in a water bath: Preheat the oven to 180C. Pour the custard mixture into the caramel-lined ramekins. Arrange the ramekins in a deep baking tray and carefully fill the tray with hot water until it reaches halfway up the ramekins’ sides. Cover the tray tightly with foil to trap steam and ensure even cooking. Bake for 45 minutes, or until the custards are just set with a slight wobble in the centre.

5. Cool and chill: Remove the ramekins from the water bath and allow them to cool to room temperature. Once cooled, refrigerate for a minimum of 6 hours, or preferably overnight.

6. To serve: Run a small knife around the edge of each ramekin and gently invert onto dessert plates. Garnish with a sprinkle of pistachio powder and an edible flower for a fresh, seasonal finish.

Chef’s notes: