Barry Eckhaus/EAT Magazine
You don’t operate a successful restaurant for over 30 years accidentally. It takes some effort, good food, enduring staff, endearing regulars, and perhaps some beer and garlic.
The classic pizza and pasta joint is buzzing with regulars daily, and proprietor Mark Esteppe is usually in the middle of it all, introducing people to one another or simply shooting the breeze.
It comes down to a pretty simple formula: fresh ingredients, dough made daily, house-made sauces and dressings, plenty of libations. It’s a winning combination.
Esteppe claims the best Caesar salad around, the dressing zippy with a touch of anchovy and a little hot sauce. Those who want a more substantial starter can go for a famous Marko’s Meatball or Juan’s Spicy Shrimp — but it’s hard to beat the buttery garlic knots.
Subs are new additions to the menu, with savory options like chicken or eggplant parmesan, meatball, hot Italian and Philly cheesesteak. Made to order and bubbling fresh from the oven, they bring a whole new layer of abundance to the menu options.
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But the pizza remains the hands-down bestseller at the upbeat, energetic pizzeria. Gluten-free is an option, but the house dough is wonderful: chewy, crisp on the bottom, full of flavor. The menu includes all the classics you’d expect, such as the Meat Eaters (all of the meats, plus cheese and sauce) and the Supreme (a Meat Eater plus mushrooms, olives, peppers and onions). But delve further into the list and you’ll discover such local favorites as the Sweet Border (pepperoni, pineapple, jalapeño and cilantro), the Chicken Pesto (fresh basil pesto, chicken, tomato slices and garlic) or the Taco (red onions, sausage, tomato, ground beef, green chiles and special sauce).
“It’s really not just the food, it’s the atmosphere, the welcoming invitation that we’re all a family,” Esteppe says. And a lot of that vibe comes from Esteppe, who might as easily be working the register or sitting at the bar himself, swapping stories in between getting up to deliver pizzas, pour drinks and check in on the various tables.
The family-friendly restaurant welcomes soccer teams, and has become a beacon for those who want to eat later as they serve until 10 p.m. daily.
With plenty of beer on tap and in bottles, plus a menu that’s full of Italian wines, it’s a friendly place to stop and stay awhile — especially on the sunny patio.
